REVIEW: The Rebel of the Family

Tuesday 27 December 2022

In the latest edition of Connect, our food reviewer, Harry Smiles, tried out Good Rebel, one of the island's newest eateries.

An out-of-town finance centre has plenty of hungry people to feed – so Admiral Park was a sublime choice for a new chic restaurant. Unsurprisingly, it has quicky become as popular with a much wider clientele.

I headed there, with a friend, for a catch up over a birthday brunch. A suitably ‘in thing’ to do at this most contemporary of venues, which is part of the same group as Fat Rascal, located in Lefebvre Street, but marketing itself as ‘the good rebel of the family’.

Good Rebel opened this summer. This was my first visit and my friend’s too. My expectations, always high of course, were higher still because of great reports from other friends and family. We were not disappointed – certainly not with the food anyway.

On the Sunday morning we headed to Good Rebel, half the island seemed to have the same idea, and there was a queue outside.

We advised a member of staff who seemed to be in charge – but that was a bit of an assumption on our part – that we wanted a table for two, and we joined the end of the queue.

Some tables were free and there could have been a smoother operation keeping on top of diners no longer eating, wannabee diners queuing and empty tables. In fairness, this is quite common in Guernsey these days – often as a product of thriving employment and difficulty filling vacancies.

After a wait, we were shown to a table, and efficiently served drinks while being invited to choose our food. Strictly speaking, it was now much closer to lunchtime than breakfast time, but we stuck with our plan for brunch.

The menu at Good Rebel is impressive with a great mix of classics and more modern dishes and plenty of choice for vegans and gluten avoiders.

A busy restaurant with high ceilings and an almost industrial theme to the décor sounds like it could be noisy. But it wasn’t. The atmosphere was perfect: relaxed, welcoming, authentic. Background chatter from neighbouring tables and good music helps create a restaurant community but neither was so overpowering as to be disruptive to our own catch-up chat. 

It seemed that everyone was welcome, including a dog sleeping under an outside table and a lady with a parrot on her shoulder. I told you it was contemporary.

Aside from facing the new – and very swanky – offices of Julius Baer, diners could forget they are in a commercial hub. 

Coffee is an important ingredient of brunch – as important as the food really. Here, again, full marks for Good Rebel. It was outstanding – mellow, so smooth and deliciously moreish, if drinks can be moreish.

We ordered Bacon Florentine, with a side of chorizo and grilled halloumi, together with pancakes, berries and fresh yoghurt.

They were efficiently served and almost all were enthusiastically devoured. They were mostly cooked and presented perfectly.

The only exception, which was probably our fault when ordering, was the chorizo, which was not well matched with the Bacon Florentine.

VERDICT

Overall, very positive. Great food; great drinks; great atmosphere.

Good Rebel has the recipe for success. Its good early reviews are thoroughly deserved.

All the staff we encountered were hospitable and professional, but so busy. A victim of their own success so early in their story perhaps?

Next time we go, which will be soon, we’ll plan for a bit of a wait for a table, but confident that it will be worth it.

Credit for Pictures (top): Good Rebel and Visit Guernsey. 

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